Borrowing money to build a large building for rabbit production is not recommended. By the time production problems have been solved and the facility is at full production, the producer is usually so far behind in payments that financial recovery is impossible. The prospective producer is recommended to remodel an existing building and start small. In this way the producer may be able to begin production with a minimum of borrowed capital and avoid a great deal of financial risk. The best type of rabbit building is a modular design which can be expanded as needed. The typical building investment will be $40-$60 per cage.
Self-cleaning, wire cages elevated 2 to 3 feet from the ground are the recommended method of housing rabbits. Cages may be constructed with wood frames, but this is generally not recommended as wire cages are longer lasting, easier to construct, and more sanitary.
Each cage has a nest box for protection of young rabbits. A satisfactory nest box is 12 inches high, 12 inches wide, and 18 inches long. One end of the box is cut down to 6 inches. Ample straw should be added to the nest box before the does give birth. Low-pressure automatic waterers are recommended as they will not spray rabbits as they drink, are more sanitary, and require less labor than water dishes. Feeders should hold enough feed for a doe and her litter for one day. To prevent contamination of food by manure, feeders should be mounted between 2.5 to 3.5 inches above the cage floor. If the producer assembles cages and nest boxes, he/she can expect to save 50 percent of cash construction costs over purchasing preassembled cages and boxes (provided the producer's labor is relatively inexpensive).
Recommended Space Requirements for Rabbits
Size of Rabbit Space Requirement
lbs. Sq. inches
3-5 180
6-8 360
9-11 540
12 or more 720 (24"x30")
Recommended Space Requirements for Nursing Does
Size of Rabbit Space Requirement
lbs. Sq. inches
3-5 576
6-8 720
9-11 864
12 or more 1,080 (30"x36")
About the Author:
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/alt-ag/rabbit.htm
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Breeds of rabbits
Rabbits are generally classified according to size, weight and type of pelt. Small rabbits weigh about 3-4 pounds at maturity, medium breeds 9-12 pounds, and large breeds 14-16 pounds. The two most popular breeds for meat production are the New Zealand and the Californian. These breeds are most popular because they combine white fur (preferred by processors) and good growth characteristics. New Zealand rabbits are slightly larger than the Californian, 9-13 pounds versus 8-10 pounds. The New Zealand rabbit has a completely white, red or black body, whereas the Californian is white with colored nose, ears and feet.
The two most popular rabbits for fur production are the Rex and the American Chinchilla. The Rex is slightly smaller than the American Chinchilla, 7 pounds versus 10 pounds. Fur from the Rex rabbit is unique in that guard hairs and underfur are the same length. The markets for rabbit fur tend to be unstable, so be sure there is a sufficient demand to allow fur to be marketed in a reasonable amount of time.
The two most popular rabbits for fur production are the Rex and the American Chinchilla. The Rex is slightly smaller than the American Chinchilla, 7 pounds versus 10 pounds. Fur from the Rex rabbit is unique in that guard hairs and underfur are the same length. The markets for rabbit fur tend to be unstable, so be sure there is a sufficient demand to allow fur to be marketed in a reasonable amount of time.
Environmental
Rabbits have been a source of environmental problems when introduced into the wild by humans. As a result of their appetites, and the rate at which they breed, wild rabbit depredation can be problematic for agriculture. Gassing, barriers (fences), shooting, snaring, and ferreting have been used to control rabbit populations, but the most effective measures are diseases such as myxomatosis (myxo or mixi, colloquially) and calicivirus. In Europe, where rabbits are farmed on a large scale, they are protected against myxomatosis and calicivirus with a genetically modified virus. The virus was developed in Spain, and is beneficial to rabbit farmers. If it were to make its way into wild populations in areas such as Australia, it could create a population boom, as those diseases are the most serious threats to rabbit survival. Rabbits in Australia are considered to be such a pest that land owners are legally obliged to control them.
Rabbits as food.
Leporids such as European rabbits and hares are a food meat in Europe, South America, North America, some parts of the Middle East, and China, among other places.
Rabbit meat was once commonly sold in Sydney, Australia, the sellers of which giving the name to the rugby league team the South Sydney Rabbitohs, but quickly became unpopular after the disease myxomatosis was introduced in an attempt to wipe out the feral rabbit population (see also Rabbits in Australia).
Rabbit is still commonly sold in UK butchers and markets, although not frequently in supermarkets. At Farmers markets and the famous Borough Market in London, rabbits will be displayed dead and hanging unbutchered in the traditional style next to braces of Pheasant and other small game.
When used for food, rabbits are both hunted and bred for meat. Snares or guns along with dogs are usually employed when catching wild rabbits for food. In many regions, rabbits are also bred for meat, a practice called cuniculture. Rabbits can then be killed by hitting the back of their heads, a practice from which the term rabbit punch is derived. Rabbit meat is a good source of high quality protein. It can be used in most ways chicken meat is used. Rabbit meat is leaner than beef, pork, and chicken meat. Rabbit products are generally labelled in three ways, the first being Fryer. This is a young rabbit between 1 1/2 and 3 1/2 pounds, and up to 12 weeks in age. This type of meat is tender and fine grained. The next product is a Roaster, they are usually over 4 pounds and over 8 months in age. The flesh is firm and coarse grained and less tender than a fryer. Then there are giblets which include the liver and heart. One of the most common type of rabbit to be bred for meat is New Zealand white rabbit.
Rabbit pelts are sometimes used in for clothing and accessories, such as scarves or hats. Rabbits are very good producers of manure; additionally, their urine, being high in nitrogen, makes lemon trees very productive. Their milk may also be of great medicinal or nutritional benefit due to its high protein content (see links below).
There are a number of health issues associated with the use of rabbits for meat, one of which is Tularemia or Rabbit Fever. Another is so-called rabbit starvation, due most likely to essential amino acid deficiencies in rabbit meat and synthesis limitations in human beings.
Rabbit meat was once commonly sold in Sydney, Australia, the sellers of which giving the name to the rugby league team the South Sydney Rabbitohs, but quickly became unpopular after the disease myxomatosis was introduced in an attempt to wipe out the feral rabbit population (see also Rabbits in Australia).
Rabbit is still commonly sold in UK butchers and markets, although not frequently in supermarkets. At Farmers markets and the famous Borough Market in London, rabbits will be displayed dead and hanging unbutchered in the traditional style next to braces of Pheasant and other small game.
When used for food, rabbits are both hunted and bred for meat. Snares or guns along with dogs are usually employed when catching wild rabbits for food. In many regions, rabbits are also bred for meat, a practice called cuniculture. Rabbits can then be killed by hitting the back of their heads, a practice from which the term rabbit punch is derived. Rabbit meat is a good source of high quality protein. It can be used in most ways chicken meat is used. Rabbit meat is leaner than beef, pork, and chicken meat. Rabbit products are generally labelled in three ways, the first being Fryer. This is a young rabbit between 1 1/2 and 3 1/2 pounds, and up to 12 weeks in age. This type of meat is tender and fine grained. The next product is a Roaster, they are usually over 4 pounds and over 8 months in age. The flesh is firm and coarse grained and less tender than a fryer. Then there are giblets which include the liver and heart. One of the most common type of rabbit to be bred for meat is New Zealand white rabbit.
Rabbit pelts are sometimes used in for clothing and accessories, such as scarves or hats. Rabbits are very good producers of manure; additionally, their urine, being high in nitrogen, makes lemon trees very productive. Their milk may also be of great medicinal or nutritional benefit due to its high protein content (see links below).
There are a number of health issues associated with the use of rabbits for meat, one of which is Tularemia or Rabbit Fever. Another is so-called rabbit starvation, due most likely to essential amino acid deficiencies in rabbit meat and synthesis limitations in human beings.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Why Rabbits Should Not Be Declawed.
Declawing rabbits is unnecessary and cruel.Here are some facts that you should consider before making a decision. Please note that in this article, the comparisons to declawing a cat do not imply that we support cat declawing. Rather, that it is even more severe for a rabbit to undergo this ammputation.
1. Rabbits do not have retractable claws like a cat which means they use them ALL the time for traction. ( A cat does not need its claws in normal movement around the house. It "extends" the claws when it needs to "hook" into somthing like a prey item or a toy) Rabbits that are declawed have more problems with traction, particularly on smooth surfaces. This can lead to splay leg conditions, particularly if the rabbit is sedentary or overweight.
2. This is a PAINFUL operation and they have to walk on the surgery sites for several days while healing takes place. A cat that is declawed is also in pain (which is why I don't even like this in cats...but that is another issue), but rabbits walk more ON the surgical site, rather then on an elevated pad. I don't know if you realize that when a declaw is done that the bone that the claw is attached to is either severed or removed and there is a large hole that has to be either sewed or glued shut.
3. When a rabbit is declawed it cannot "scratch an itch" with its back leg and that could be quite frustrating.
It is interesting that in Europe most vets would not even CONSIDER such an operation in a rabbit. It would be deemed cruelty to animals.
Alternatives to rabbits that like to dig or scratch.
Obviously work a LOT with the rabbit to calm it down. Work with an hrs educator or vet who can help with training procedures. See our San Diego Chapter's digging article.
Construct an exercise pen out of a dog exercise pen material (usually metal panels that slip together to make any shape to keep the rabbit from getting into corners to dig.
Protect cornres or digging spots with heavy plastic rub covers (like the kind they put under office furniture)
Use Soft Paws on the rabbits claws. These are soft plastic caps that are placed over the nails and held in place with surgical glue. They do not hurt the rabbit (the glue is only on the nails)...they fall off and are replaced by the owner in one to three months. The plastic is soft and gives good traction and is harmless if pulled off and swallowed. check with local vets and pet stores for this material. It is sold for cats to prevent declaws. The claws cannot scratch with this.
About the Author:
http://www.rabbit.org/care/declawing.html
1. Rabbits do not have retractable claws like a cat which means they use them ALL the time for traction. ( A cat does not need its claws in normal movement around the house. It "extends" the claws when it needs to "hook" into somthing like a prey item or a toy) Rabbits that are declawed have more problems with traction, particularly on smooth surfaces. This can lead to splay leg conditions, particularly if the rabbit is sedentary or overweight.
2. This is a PAINFUL operation and they have to walk on the surgery sites for several days while healing takes place. A cat that is declawed is also in pain (which is why I don't even like this in cats...but that is another issue), but rabbits walk more ON the surgical site, rather then on an elevated pad. I don't know if you realize that when a declaw is done that the bone that the claw is attached to is either severed or removed and there is a large hole that has to be either sewed or glued shut.
3. When a rabbit is declawed it cannot "scratch an itch" with its back leg and that could be quite frustrating.
It is interesting that in Europe most vets would not even CONSIDER such an operation in a rabbit. It would be deemed cruelty to animals.
Alternatives to rabbits that like to dig or scratch.
Obviously work a LOT with the rabbit to calm it down. Work with an hrs educator or vet who can help with training procedures. See our San Diego Chapter's digging article.
Construct an exercise pen out of a dog exercise pen material (usually metal panels that slip together to make any shape to keep the rabbit from getting into corners to dig.
Protect cornres or digging spots with heavy plastic rub covers (like the kind they put under office furniture)
Use Soft Paws on the rabbits claws. These are soft plastic caps that are placed over the nails and held in place with surgical glue. They do not hurt the rabbit (the glue is only on the nails)...they fall off and are replaced by the owner in one to three months. The plastic is soft and gives good traction and is harmless if pulled off and swallowed. check with local vets and pet stores for this material. It is sold for cats to prevent declaws. The claws cannot scratch with this.
About the Author:
http://www.rabbit.org/care/declawing.html
DIETARY ITEMS.
GRASS AND HAY
Grass provides a balanced source of protein, digestible and indigestible fibre, vitamins and minerals, and ideally pet rabbits should be allowed to graze for several hours a day. However this can be impractical for house rabbits. Grass is approximately 20 - 40% crude fibre. Grass should be grazed or fed fresh cut. Lawnmower clippings should not be used as they ferment rapidly and can cause digestive disturbance.
Hay should also be considered an essential part of the pet rabbit diet and should be provided ad libitum. Hay can be used as a substitute for grass, or fed in addition. Species of grass used for haymaking in the UK are ryegrass, timothy, fescues, meadow grass, and Cocksfoot (orchard grass) and are generally referred to as meadow hay, often containing a mixture of species, including come clover. Fibre content varies from 29.8% (meadow grass) to 35.6% (orchard grass). Protein content of grass hays is generally in the range 6.3% to 16.7%. Quality will vary depending on the time of year. Cutting hay before flowering gives the best quality. Opinion varies as to the best age of hay to feed. Some rabbit keepers recommend feeding hay that is at least 4 months old as young hay may lead to diarrhoea, but others feed new hay with no problems. Prolonged storage of hay can lead to loss of nutrients, especially vitamins A and D, and especially if the temperature is warm. Good hay is sweet-smelling and with no mustiness. Lucerne (alfalfa) is used widely in the USA and other parts of the world for haymaking but is not common in the UK. It is high in protein (16.5%) and calcium and is thus very useful for growing rabbits, but can lead to obesity and urolithiasis in mature animals. Other legume hays (e.g clover) are similarly high in protein, calcium and energy and are not recommended for adult pet rabbit.
Straw is not recommended as, although eaten, is low in nutrients and will lead to deficiencies if it is a major part of the diet.The feeding of silage is generally not practical, although it has been approached in some countries.
Anecdotal reports on the use of artificially dried grass in rabbits have been received and rabbits seem to find it very palatable. Nutrient content is often superior to sun-dried hay, although vitamin D content will be lower and carotene and vitamin E content can deteriorate with time unless stored correctly.
About the Author:
http://www.thebrc.org/diet.htm
Grass provides a balanced source of protein, digestible and indigestible fibre, vitamins and minerals, and ideally pet rabbits should be allowed to graze for several hours a day. However this can be impractical for house rabbits. Grass is approximately 20 - 40% crude fibre. Grass should be grazed or fed fresh cut. Lawnmower clippings should not be used as they ferment rapidly and can cause digestive disturbance.
Hay should also be considered an essential part of the pet rabbit diet and should be provided ad libitum. Hay can be used as a substitute for grass, or fed in addition. Species of grass used for haymaking in the UK are ryegrass, timothy, fescues, meadow grass, and Cocksfoot (orchard grass) and are generally referred to as meadow hay, often containing a mixture of species, including come clover. Fibre content varies from 29.8% (meadow grass) to 35.6% (orchard grass). Protein content of grass hays is generally in the range 6.3% to 16.7%. Quality will vary depending on the time of year. Cutting hay before flowering gives the best quality. Opinion varies as to the best age of hay to feed. Some rabbit keepers recommend feeding hay that is at least 4 months old as young hay may lead to diarrhoea, but others feed new hay with no problems. Prolonged storage of hay can lead to loss of nutrients, especially vitamins A and D, and especially if the temperature is warm. Good hay is sweet-smelling and with no mustiness. Lucerne (alfalfa) is used widely in the USA and other parts of the world for haymaking but is not common in the UK. It is high in protein (16.5%) and calcium and is thus very useful for growing rabbits, but can lead to obesity and urolithiasis in mature animals. Other legume hays (e.g clover) are similarly high in protein, calcium and energy and are not recommended for adult pet rabbit.
Straw is not recommended as, although eaten, is low in nutrients and will lead to deficiencies if it is a major part of the diet.The feeding of silage is generally not practical, although it has been approached in some countries.
Anecdotal reports on the use of artificially dried grass in rabbits have been received and rabbits seem to find it very palatable. Nutrient content is often superior to sun-dried hay, although vitamin D content will be lower and carotene and vitamin E content can deteriorate with time unless stored correctly.
About the Author:
http://www.thebrc.org/diet.htm
LINKS BETWEEN DIET AND DISEASE.
Low fibre and high carbohydrate diets are linked to dental disease, gastrointestinal disease, obesity and behavioural problems. Excess calcium in the diet can be linked to urolithiasis (bladder stones).
1. Dental disease Rabbit teeth grow constantly throughout life. The rate of growth should balance the amount of wear produced by grinding fibrous foods, so that tooth length stays constant. Incisor wear, growth and eruption are balanced in a normal rabbit at a rate of about 3mm per week. Food is ground by the cheek teeth. A natural diet of grass and plants is highly abrasive to the cheek teeth, so there is rapid wear of the teeth, around 3mm per month, with equally rapid tooth growth. Upper teeth grow faster than lower teeth, which is why problems are generally seen first on the upper jaw.
Rabbits on a high carbohydrate and low fibre diet have reduced tooth wear and therefore elongation of the tooth both above and below the gum. This results in irregular wear, distortion and the formation of sharp painful spikes. Severe elongation of the cheek teeth can prevent the mouth from closing fully, which ultimately prevents the incisors meeting properly, causing them to also overgrow. Overgrown distorted teeth are predisposed to infection and the development of facial abscesses.
High carbohydrate diets and reduced wear also predispose to caries (cavities).
Opinions vary on the significance of dietary calcium levels on dental disease. Many rabbits are selective eaters of coarse mix, favouring items low in calcium and fibre. This can make them prone to osteoporosis, poor tooth and bone quality, and dental disease. Bone growth, development and maintenance is also dependent on the mechanical stresses to which it is subjected and rabbits which do not spend prolonged periods grinding fibrous food can also show poor jaw bone quality. Low vitamin D levels are common in rabbits that have no access to sunlight, and this may also be associated with poor tooth and bone quality. Although rabbits do not need vitamin D in order to absorb calcium, low levels of both calcium and vitamin D are likely to be a significant factor in the progression of dental disease.
Not all dental disease is due to diet, and genetic factors are also important. A congenital malalignment of the teeth, particularly in extreme dwarf and lop breeds, can also be a significant factor.
2. Gastrointestinal disease Fibre is critical to the rabbit for gastrointestinal health because it stimulates and maintains normal motility of the gut. Low fibre diets predispose to gut stasis and the formation of hairballs. Carbohydrates (simple sugars and starches) are an important energy source and are digested and absorbed in the stomach and small intestine. However, any residual starch that is not digested and absorbed in the small intestine passes into the caecum as a substrate for bacterial fermentation. High starch diets can be incompletely digested due to the rapid gut transit times, and cause a rapid overgrowth in caecal bacteria. This can lead to enterotoxaemia and a fatal diarrhoea. This is seen mainly in young, recently weaned rabbits when also fed minimal hay, and combined with the stress of a change of diet and a recent move, for example from a breeder to a pet-shop.
3. Behavioural problems Rabbits in the wild spend many hours a day eating. Low fibre concentrate diets are rapidly eaten and rabbits can develop vices related to boredom, such as increased aggression or repetitive bar biting. Lack of fibre can also lead to fur chewing and barbering.
4. Obesity Fats are used in commercial rabbit diets to improve palatability and provide a non-carbohydrate energy source. Fat also stimulates gastrointestinal motility, but reduces intestinal absorption of calcium. Many treat foods contain high levels of fat, (e.g. chocolate drops) and should not be fed. High fat levels also increase the risk of hepatic lipidosis developing during periods of starvation. Pet rabbits are prone to obesity so high fat diets and ad lib feeding of concentrates should be avoided.
5. Urolithiasis Excess calcium in the diet can contribute to sludgy urine or even urolithiasis (bladder stones), which often require surgical treatment. Rabbits have a unique calcium metabolism in that they do not control uptake of calcium from the gut. Instead, they absorb most of what is eaten and excrete the excess in the form of calcium carbonate, in the urine. Although it is normal for rabbits to have calcium crystals in the urine, overweight inactive animals, those with neurological or other problems affecting normal bladder function and emptying, or those with urinary tract infections seem predisposed to developing problems associated with this.
Substances in foods called phytates, oxalates and acetates form complexes with calcium and other minerals and this can hinder their absorption. Phytic acid is present in high quantities on grains and beans. Oxalates are present in many plants including swede, spinach and alfalfa, in which 20-30% of the calcium is in the form of calcium oxalate which reduces its availability. Feeds high in calcium and low in oxalate include kale, broccoli, turnip, collard and mustard greens.
About the Author:
http://www.thebrc.org/diet.htm
1. Dental disease Rabbit teeth grow constantly throughout life. The rate of growth should balance the amount of wear produced by grinding fibrous foods, so that tooth length stays constant. Incisor wear, growth and eruption are balanced in a normal rabbit at a rate of about 3mm per week. Food is ground by the cheek teeth. A natural diet of grass and plants is highly abrasive to the cheek teeth, so there is rapid wear of the teeth, around 3mm per month, with equally rapid tooth growth. Upper teeth grow faster than lower teeth, which is why problems are generally seen first on the upper jaw.
Rabbits on a high carbohydrate and low fibre diet have reduced tooth wear and therefore elongation of the tooth both above and below the gum. This results in irregular wear, distortion and the formation of sharp painful spikes. Severe elongation of the cheek teeth can prevent the mouth from closing fully, which ultimately prevents the incisors meeting properly, causing them to also overgrow. Overgrown distorted teeth are predisposed to infection and the development of facial abscesses.
High carbohydrate diets and reduced wear also predispose to caries (cavities).
Opinions vary on the significance of dietary calcium levels on dental disease. Many rabbits are selective eaters of coarse mix, favouring items low in calcium and fibre. This can make them prone to osteoporosis, poor tooth and bone quality, and dental disease. Bone growth, development and maintenance is also dependent on the mechanical stresses to which it is subjected and rabbits which do not spend prolonged periods grinding fibrous food can also show poor jaw bone quality. Low vitamin D levels are common in rabbits that have no access to sunlight, and this may also be associated with poor tooth and bone quality. Although rabbits do not need vitamin D in order to absorb calcium, low levels of both calcium and vitamin D are likely to be a significant factor in the progression of dental disease.
Not all dental disease is due to diet, and genetic factors are also important. A congenital malalignment of the teeth, particularly in extreme dwarf and lop breeds, can also be a significant factor.
2. Gastrointestinal disease Fibre is critical to the rabbit for gastrointestinal health because it stimulates and maintains normal motility of the gut. Low fibre diets predispose to gut stasis and the formation of hairballs. Carbohydrates (simple sugars and starches) are an important energy source and are digested and absorbed in the stomach and small intestine. However, any residual starch that is not digested and absorbed in the small intestine passes into the caecum as a substrate for bacterial fermentation. High starch diets can be incompletely digested due to the rapid gut transit times, and cause a rapid overgrowth in caecal bacteria. This can lead to enterotoxaemia and a fatal diarrhoea. This is seen mainly in young, recently weaned rabbits when also fed minimal hay, and combined with the stress of a change of diet and a recent move, for example from a breeder to a pet-shop.
3. Behavioural problems Rabbits in the wild spend many hours a day eating. Low fibre concentrate diets are rapidly eaten and rabbits can develop vices related to boredom, such as increased aggression or repetitive bar biting. Lack of fibre can also lead to fur chewing and barbering.
4. Obesity Fats are used in commercial rabbit diets to improve palatability and provide a non-carbohydrate energy source. Fat also stimulates gastrointestinal motility, but reduces intestinal absorption of calcium. Many treat foods contain high levels of fat, (e.g. chocolate drops) and should not be fed. High fat levels also increase the risk of hepatic lipidosis developing during periods of starvation. Pet rabbits are prone to obesity so high fat diets and ad lib feeding of concentrates should be avoided.
5. Urolithiasis Excess calcium in the diet can contribute to sludgy urine or even urolithiasis (bladder stones), which often require surgical treatment. Rabbits have a unique calcium metabolism in that they do not control uptake of calcium from the gut. Instead, they absorb most of what is eaten and excrete the excess in the form of calcium carbonate, in the urine. Although it is normal for rabbits to have calcium crystals in the urine, overweight inactive animals, those with neurological or other problems affecting normal bladder function and emptying, or those with urinary tract infections seem predisposed to developing problems associated with this.
Substances in foods called phytates, oxalates and acetates form complexes with calcium and other minerals and this can hinder their absorption. Phytic acid is present in high quantities on grains and beans. Oxalates are present in many plants including swede, spinach and alfalfa, in which 20-30% of the calcium is in the form of calcium oxalate which reduces its availability. Feeds high in calcium and low in oxalate include kale, broccoli, turnip, collard and mustard greens.
About the Author:
http://www.thebrc.org/diet.htm
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